Madagascar: The Spectacular South-East

Pineapple Flambé!

 Madagascar continued to amaze me throughout my journey in the south. I experienced the true meaning of the word 'rainforest' in Ranomafana where I searched for lemurs in the pouring rain. Most that I found were huddled up high in the trees trying to stay dry, but one sifaka climbed down nice and close to us so we had a great view. Although we'd taken our rain coats, they were no match for the amount of water we encountered. After becoming thoroughly soaked the first day, Mr. Elder and I fashioned ourselves a second rain layer out of garbage bags for Day Two. Check out how stylish we are!

Next, I took an extremely long (17 hour) train ride to get to the East Coast (only about 100 km away). Although lengthy, it was interesting to stop in the different stations and witness how the tiny village would all come out to welcome the train. Children would try jumping on to the cars excited for a wild ride hanging on to the side of the train through town. They would come through the cars trying to sell home-made snacks or jewellery, and beg for candy or empty water bottles while we were stopped. It was sad to see that they were 'working' instead of going to school. For many of the small villages we stopped in, the train is very important because you can't reach the town by roads!

In Manakara, on the East Coast, I took a tour in a pirogue, which is a dug-out canoe. I saw fisherman battling huge waves in these tiny boats; they would disappear from view as the sea swelled around them! Our guide told us they used to come home with boats filled with fish to sell in order to support their families. In recent years, they may catch only a handful, as huge international fishing boats illegally scoop up fish with their big nets not too far from shore. The community members have had to find different ways to try to provide for their families.

The tiny pirogues battling the waves!

Then back across the country I went, stopping in Ambalavao to see how they make their own paper and silk.

A typical bus called a "taxi brousse" or 'bush taxi' in English

Pounding the paper pulp.

Pressing the pulp, then decorating!

The difference between wild and farmed silk cocoons.

The incredibly long process of weaving the silk threads!

Ambalavao is also famous for hosting the country's largest zebu market. Farmers will walk from all over the country with their cattle to buy or sell them. They might walk up to 40 days one way with a herd! I had to watch out for all the horns!

From Ambalavao, I also took a day trip to the Anja Community Reserve. I was really excited to hike through this park because it's home to the most famous Malagasy lemur - the Ring-Tail! This species of lemurs is the only one to live in dry, rocky areas, and in this area, the lemurs are quite habituated (used to people). They jumped from tree to tree, ate leaves, and chased birds around for fun all within meters of us! The highlight was seeing the mother lemurs with their new babies (they were around a month old). One mother, in particular, caught my attention because she had twins!!!

I liked Anja for more than just the lemur-viewing. Unlike other protected areas we've visited, Anja is a community-run organization. The villagers themselves protect the park, and all of the entrance fee money goes right back to the village. My guide told me they build schools, take care of the elderly, pay guards to protect the park, and maintain the roads and bridges with the funds. I felt really good to be helping the people of the area and the animals!