Madagascar: Finishing a Fantastic Trip

The final leg of my time in Madagascar took me all the way to the West Coast. I first passed through Isalo, a hot desert town, where I hiked through a river-cut canyon and found one last lemur species, the Verreaux Sifaka. You might've thought I'd be sick of seeing lemurs by this point, but each time it was just as exciting, and this viewing may have been the most exciting of all. Even though Isalo National Park is the most visited out of all of Madagascar, Mr Elder, our guide, and I were the only ones on the trail when these two charming lemurs decided to take the same path as us. Our videocamera was unfortunately out of battery life, so a series of pictures is all we have to communicate the adorable way they bounced along the trail on two legs like humans!

                            

 

In Isalo we also had the opportunity to visit a sapphire mine, which was really interesting! They dig straight down searching for round river rocks, an indication that sapphires might be present. If any are discovered in a test dig, they will continue the open-pit mine, pumping underground water out, while workers carry heavy bags of dirt up to the top to be sifted. I learned that sapphires actually come in all colours, and rubies are actually red sapphires and emeralds are green ones! The most traditional deep blue colour is the most rare, and therefore, most expensive to buy.

Next, we arrived at the port town Tulear where we watched sunset views over the Mozambique Channel. We had to take a boat transfer to get to our last destination, Anakao, a beach town just south of Tulear. We relaxed and walked the beach, eating fresh fish for lunch and dinner.

Then we flew back to Antananarivo for a night so that we could catch our flight onwards to the French island Reunion.

All in all, I have fabulous things to say about Madagascar! It is a country full of polite and friendly people who made this the most enjoyable country to visit so far on the trip for me. The landscape is incredibly diverse and beautiful, as you have likely seen from all of my photos. It was tough to choose from the hundreds we've taken because they are all so stunning! There's something for everyone from white-sand beaches with turquoise water, to dusty deserts with baobab trees, to hills, mountains and rock cliff faces.

Although expensive to get to due to its distance from us, it is incredibly cheap once you're here. We stayed in nicer hotels or private bungalows with great views for usually $20-$30 Canadian a night. That means, unfortunately, that the standard of living here is far below what we experience at home. Electricity and running water in homes is unlikely. As you read in earlier posts, many children do not attend school and sadly a good portion of the population is illiterate (unable to read). Adults and children alike work very hard to provide for themselves.

Two days after we leave, Madagascar is having a federal election. They have had years of instability in their government, so this could provide the opportunity for growth and change. I know that Mr. Elder and I will be watching to see how everything unfolds and we'll be hoping that it improves the lives of the Malagasy people. We'll find a charity to donate to that increases opportunities for education because it pained us both to see children working instead of attending school. They are a nation of wonderful people who I hope to see thrive and improve their quality of life. It is a good reminder to us to be thankful for the things we often take for granted!

Madagascar: Trekking to the Top

From Ambalavao, I had to take a 4x4 along poor roads to get into Namoly Valley, which is the gateway to the Andringitra National Park. The road was so terrible that our driver brought along planks of wood so that he could build one of the bridges for us to drive over! (Then, we had to pick up all the boards again after we were across). Along the drive I saw kids walking to and from school from their small villages. Our driver told me that some have to walk up to an hour each way to get to school! There are so many children and so few schools and teachers that children, even up to high school age, only go for a few hours a day! They excitedly raced behind our car when we drove by, knowing that tourists bring business to their towns.

The next morning, Mr. Elder and I, and two other Canadians we had met along the way, headed out to hike up the second-highest peak in Madagascar, Pic Boby. (The highest peak is in the North, close to Diego Suarez, and is not summitable). It sure looked like a long way away! The plan was to complete a 3-day trek as follows:

Day One - hike 12 km across the valley, up along the primary rainforest, across a plateau, and camp at the base of the summit
Day Two - start at 4am to hike to the peak for sunrise, then hike back down to camp for breakfast (7km total), then continue hiking across the plateau, up and over the mountain pass, and camp at a different site on the other side of the mountain range another 9.5km
Day Three - descend the rest of the range, hike through the valley, past small towns to get to our lodge (7.5km)

A long way to walk!

The first day of hiking wasn't too bad - a little steep in parts, and super hot, but the scenery was outstanding, and our little camp seemed cosy. We'd hiked 12 km in 5 hours, and reached the base camp of Pic Boby. We were thankful to have porters who carried our big bags, so that we only needed to take our day packs. They were heavy enough when filled with 3L of water each and snacks for the day!

We reached 2000m elevation! Still 662m to go!

It looks closer now!

Our Campsite

We cooked a simple dinner of rice and beans with chopped onions over a wood-burning fire. We anxiously watched a storm roll in, and were pelted with hail as we ate. The night was uncomfortable with huge winds blowing rain at us, making us feel even more cramped in our tiny tents. But when we got up at 4am, the stars were like nothing I had ever seen! We hit the trail with flashlights and headlamps in an attempt to be at the summit for sunrise. It took us a little longer than hoped, our tired legs complaining with each step of the steep trail, but we made it eventually!

Watching the sunrise as we hiked

At the summit!!!

Then it was back down to have a quick breakfast at the camp. We knew the itinerary for the day was tough - we'd already hiked 7km, plus the 12 from the day before, yet we still needed to hike up and over the mountain pass to make it to the second camp. But none of us had slept well, and the idea of another night exposed under the stormy skies had us wishing for a real bed. So we made the decision to change our plans. We were going to attempt to hike all the way to the lodge that day. That meant another 17km to go!

It started easy, as we walked along the stunning mountain pass, crossing creeks and passing bushes of wildflowers. Then with gritty determination we climbed straight up, knowing this was the last big ascent of the trip. We rewarded ourselves with a few handfuls of nuts and some candy at the top, then continued going. There was more than just the physical challenge ahead of us - we knew the other factor was daylight. The sun sets here at 5:30 pm, so we'd have to keep an eye on our stops to ensure they weren't longer than 10 minutes or so. We rested when we needed to, but basically continued trudging on.

The scenery was now quite different - boulders perched precariously on other stones and the bushes were scraggly. The climb down the other side was tough on our knees, but we were thankful it wasn't raining, as that would've made it slippery. We reached Camp 2, and were feeling motivated to finish. Only 7.5 km to go!

Cowboy Hat Rock!

When we crested the hill and saw the valley below, it brought both relief and discouragement. We could see our final destination, but it seemed impossible that we still needed to hike so far. The valley dipped far below us, then rose on the other side (reasonably gently, but to us, the idea of another incline was disheartening). It took another hour and a half, but we finally made it. We had hiked 36km in 34 hours!


You can image how great we all slept that night stretched out in big comfy beds, and although extremely sore, we were thrilled the next day to look out at the impressive views of the mountain range we'd just passed. We congratulated each other, not just on the physical achievement, but on the fact that we remained upbeat and positive through the whole trip, even when we felt we couldn't possibly finish it. Mr Elder said he'd been waiting for the perfect opportunity all trip, when we were both happy, and the location was beautiful and meaningful, to ask me something special. So overlooking our mountain pass, we got engaged! :) I guess when I come back to Calgary, I won't be Ms. Tamblyn anymore.

Madagascar: The Spectacular South-East

Pineapple Flambé!

 Madagascar continued to amaze me throughout my journey in the south. I experienced the true meaning of the word 'rainforest' in Ranomafana where I searched for lemurs in the pouring rain. Most that I found were huddled up high in the trees trying to stay dry, but one sifaka climbed down nice and close to us so we had a great view. Although we'd taken our rain coats, they were no match for the amount of water we encountered. After becoming thoroughly soaked the first day, Mr. Elder and I fashioned ourselves a second rain layer out of garbage bags for Day Two. Check out how stylish we are!

Next, I took an extremely long (17 hour) train ride to get to the East Coast (only about 100 km away). Although lengthy, it was interesting to stop in the different stations and witness how the tiny village would all come out to welcome the train. Children would try jumping on to the cars excited for a wild ride hanging on to the side of the train through town. They would come through the cars trying to sell home-made snacks or jewellery, and beg for candy or empty water bottles while we were stopped. It was sad to see that they were 'working' instead of going to school. For many of the small villages we stopped in, the train is very important because you can't reach the town by roads!

In Manakara, on the East Coast, I took a tour in a pirogue, which is a dug-out canoe. I saw fisherman battling huge waves in these tiny boats; they would disappear from view as the sea swelled around them! Our guide told us they used to come home with boats filled with fish to sell in order to support their families. In recent years, they may catch only a handful, as huge international fishing boats illegally scoop up fish with their big nets not too far from shore. The community members have had to find different ways to try to provide for their families.

The tiny pirogues battling the waves!

Then back across the country I went, stopping in Ambalavao to see how they make their own paper and silk.

A typical bus called a "taxi brousse" or 'bush taxi' in English

Pounding the paper pulp.

Pressing the pulp, then decorating!

The difference between wild and farmed silk cocoons.

The incredibly long process of weaving the silk threads!

Ambalavao is also famous for hosting the country's largest zebu market. Farmers will walk from all over the country with their cattle to buy or sell them. They might walk up to 40 days one way with a herd! I had to watch out for all the horns!

From Ambalavao, I also took a day trip to the Anja Community Reserve. I was really excited to hike through this park because it's home to the most famous Malagasy lemur - the Ring-Tail! This species of lemurs is the only one to live in dry, rocky areas, and in this area, the lemurs are quite habituated (used to people). They jumped from tree to tree, ate leaves, and chased birds around for fun all within meters of us! The highlight was seeing the mother lemurs with their new babies (they were around a month old). One mother, in particular, caught my attention because she had twins!!!

I liked Anja for more than just the lemur-viewing. Unlike other protected areas we've visited, Anja is a community-run organization. The villagers themselves protect the park, and all of the entrance fee money goes right back to the village. My guide told me they build schools, take care of the elderly, pay guards to protect the park, and maintain the roads and bridges with the funds. I felt really good to be helping the people of the area and the animals!

Madagascar: Be Prepared!

So you're going on a journey...what do you take with you? If you could take ten things with you, what would they be? How about twenty things? Now what about a backpack full?

I had to make a lot of tough decisions when I packed my bag. I'm going to a huge variety of countries, so unfortunately, I have to take a bunch of different clothes. I tried to pack as lightly as I could (two pairs of pants that both zip off into shorts, three t-shirts, one tank top, six pairs of socks, etc), and really, I don't think I have very many clothes with me. You can tell from my photos that I'm wearing the same clothes over and over.

But then there's everything else. My bag is mostly made up of stuff. I've got cosmetics like toothpaste and shampoo, sunscreen and soap. Then I have a few games, like cards and a dice game.

And most importantly, I have medical supplies. I brought probably more than I really need. On one hand, you could get most of what you'd need wherever you are in the world. But I'm staying in lots of small towns and I've seen that their pharmacies are not very stocked. Then there's the issue that when you're sick or injured, you might not feel or be able to go out and buy what you need. A good example of this happened last night for us.

You probably know that malaria is a disease that's carried by mosquitoes and is found in most countries in the southern hemisphere. It is really serious and many people die each year from it. So it's important to take medication when you go to infected countries. Almost my entire trip is spent in malaria zones, so I brought enough for a year - 365 pills! This is how much space the pills take up (and I've already used two months worth of pills!)

My Malaria Pills!

Even if you're taking anti-malaria medication, you can still get malaria. But there is a better chance you'll survive, so it's worth it to carry these pills around. That means it's important to still protect yourself from mosquitoes. This is a bug coil:

The bug coils and metal stand.

It detracts insects and can kill them. You light it like an incense and it slowly burns and smokes. This one has a little metal stand that you put it on. For humans, it's not the best to breathe in the smoke, but we've used them from time to time if we're in a place with a lot of mosquitoes. 

So before going to sleep, I lit a coil. Since our bungalow was made almost entirely of dried bamboo, it seemed safest to leave it sitting on the concrete so we knew it wouldn't catch on fire. Throughout the night, it slowly burned 'til there was no coil left. At some point in the night, Mr. Elder got up in the dark. He headed to the bathroom and walked right over the metal stand for the coil! He got a huge cut in his foot, and was bleeding all over the bungalow. I had to wake up and help him. It was scary how much blood there was! 

We soon came to our senses, and got him to sit down, elevate his foot, and put pressure on the cut. It turned out to not be that bad, it just bled a lot since it was in his foot. We cleaned it, bandaged it up, and he was ok. But I couldn't help but feel very lucky! It could have been a much worse cut. As it was, there would've been no way to go get medical supplies at 3:30 am and leave him bleeding all over the place! I was thankful we were prepared.

So even though it's heavy, I know that everything I'm carrying is important in some way. In case you're curious, altogether my bag weighs 19 kilograms. I think I'll come back with some bigger muscles!

On a lighter note, I'll tell you that I did not pack any make-up. I thought that would be a waste of space! As it turns out, I didn't need to! To protect their faces from the sun, Malagasy women (women from Madagascar) use avocado paste as a shield. Then they paint over it in designs to make it pretty, like make-up. I couldn't resist giving it a try!

My friend Caroline who did my make-up.

Ready for the beach!

Madagascar: Lunar Landscape

My journey outlined in black

So far, my trip has taken me to the North: Sambava, Marjojey, Vohemar, L'Ankarana, Joffreville, and Diego Suarez. I've seen some incredible creatures like chameleons and lemurs. But I've also seen some really unusual landforms. Check it out!

In Marjojey National Park, I battled leeches and colourful millipedes in the rainforest. Trees were massive. The ground was covered with rocks, moss, and tree routes. Vines fit for Tarzan hung from branches and looped around creating swings! It was very green! Mixed in were bamboo forests. It was steep and difficult!

Hiking to the Park Entrance

Pineapple Plant!

The rainforest, of course, has many beautiful waterfalls.

Bamboo Forest

In Sambava, Vohemar, and Diego Suarez, I stayed in places right on the beach. The water was crystal clear and a beautiful turquoise. I visited the Emerald Sea, just outside of Diego on the Indian Ocean. It was one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to!

In L'Ankarana National Park, I saw a rock forest (called 'tsingys' in Malagasy) for the first time in my life. Volcanic activity and rainfall erode the limestone into peaks and gorges. It looks like something you'd find on the moon! I also explored a bat cave and Mr. Elder and I worked on our synchronized 'high five'!

Sitting in a tree of vines!

Two thumbs up for National Park #2!

The Tsingys

High Fivin' in the Bat Cave!

Then, again, I saw more Tsingys near Joffreville. These ones were red, therefore called the Tsingys Rouges. 

In Montagne d'Ambre, I explored another rain forest, but it was very different. It was originally planted by the French who wanted to see what types of trees would grow in Madagascar. So the forest looks very organized with rows and columns of big trees, and smaller trees and plants scattered beneath. The trees are of all different kinds (our guide pointed out ones from France, Japan, and Chile). It was the weirdest mix, but very beautiful! There are lemurs in this park, too, but we didn't see any. Most are nocturnal, and our guide told us it is the season for mother lemurs to be pregnant, so the lemurs stay high in the trees so they aren't disturbed).

Three thumbs up for National Park #3!

Side note...Montagne d'Ambre is also the home of one of the world's smallest chameleons! It's so cute!

Another tree that's famous here is the baobab. I've seen a few different types. Here's one of the largest in Madagascar!

Next, I'm heading South to the highlands, so I can't wait to see what it has in store!