Argentina: Iguazú Falls

Deep in the jungle, where the borders of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet is an outstanding feat of nature. For over 2 and a half kilometres stretch the Iguazú falls, waterfalls so great they make our own Canadian Niagara Falls seem small.

A Coati looking for food

What makes Iguazú so impressive is the shape of them. The water spreads across a large distance in a series of U shapes, interrupted only by small sections of tree-covered land. For most of the falls, the water dumps first from its highest point down to a middle section, then cascades further down to create two levels of waterfalls. Add that to the surrounding jungle and it is beautiful!

I arrived early (the first bus you can catch is at 7:20 am) and headed straight for the Upper Falls viewing platform. I followed a boardwalk that went right over the edge of the first, small waterfall. I could look right down to the crashing water 40 metes below. The walkway continued over two more waterfalls and I was looking down at the rocks and water when Mr E gasped and told me to look up. Ahead of us was a view of the entire stretch of waterfall...

My first glimpse at Iguazu Falls

Because we arrived so early, we had the falls completely to ourselves for the first twenty minutes but it was far from silent. That much water falling onto that many rocks creates write a roar!

After we'd explored the Upper Falls boardwalk, we took a train 20 min further into the National Park along the wide Paraná river that feeds into the falls. Another 20 minutes of boardwalk walking over the river brought us to a large platform that looks down into the most impressive section of the falls called The Devil's Throat.

Half of the water from the Paraná falls over the edge here, in a deep U-shaped channel. You can see water falling from the three sides of the U altogether onto the rocks below. Actually, its really difficult to see because so much mist is created from that much water falling at once. We were soaking wet by the time we left!

We took the train back to the entrance but this time hiked down the Lower Falls path. This is where you can see the two layers of falls, which is so beautiful. It's also where you can hop onto a boat that takes you closer to the falls, like the Maid of the Mist at Niagara, except much smaller.

We sealed our belongings in a dry sack, just wore our bathing suits, and held on tight for what would be a wild ride! First, the boat took us close to the Brazilian side of the falls so we could get pictures. Then, over to the Argentinian side. Next, the captain told us to put our cameras away and hold on... He steered the boat back to the Brazilian side but kept going and going until we were right under the waterfalls! Water pounded down on us from above, so hard that it was impossible to look up. Everyone was screaming like we were on a roller coaster. It was so much fun!

We had lunch with a view across Iguazú. At one point, we had to move because a curious coati tried to steal our snacks. Visiting Iguazú Falls had been the Number 1 thing that I had wanted to do before my trip stated and it did not disappoint!

Chile: Pitching In

Roughly 80 000 visitors come to Easter Island every year and as I told you in my previous post, it's a very remote island. You can only fly to it from two places: Santiago de Chile or Tahiti, an island in the French Polynesia. It's about a five hour flight from either place. The island itself is very tiny: it's about 163 square kilometres (the city of Calgary is over 700). So I ask you to think... When so many people visit such a small place, where do they put all of their garbage? There isn't enough space for a big landfill, it's unhealthy to burn it, and you shouldn't throw it out in the ocean, so, where does it go? Well, they have to send it back to mainland Chile, all the way across the ocean, which is very expensive.



So, I felt it was my responsibility to create even less garbage than I normally do, and to take as much of it out myself when I left. I tried to eat local foods and fresh things that didn't come in wrappers. I avoided buying bottles of water and instead used tablets to make sure the tap water was safe. And I was lucky enough to get to participate in one more thing to help the island's environment: I joined a group of high school students who were hiking out to an empty part of the island to plant trees.


The wind here on Easter Island is really, really strong, and there aren't very many trees. That means that erosion is a big problem here (when the land wears away and crumbles over time). One area in the island, in particular, is quite barren (empty). About 70 of us together hiked for a couple of hours to this section that is being rehabilitated.

It took us about an hour to plant 1400 saplings of Aito. This type of tree grows well in areas where the soil is really hard, rocky, and missing good nutrients. Once these trees start growing, they'll help to break down the hard soil and make it easier for other things to grow. Then Mako'i, Dodonea and Albizia trees will be planted as well. The naturalist in charge told us that about 90% of the trees we plant should survive, so we felt really good about what we'd done to help the island's environment!

Chile: An Easter Treat

From the coast of Argentina, it was a 12 hour bus trip back to the Andes. I spent two weeks hiking in El Bolson, then Bariloche, Argentina, before crossing the border into Chile. Chile is a skinny country that stretches from the desert in the North to the End of the World in the South. I was there earlier in the trip when I trekked through Torres del Paine National Park (click here to see my earlier post). They also speak Spanish, and the Andes create a natural border between them and Argentina. Chile's quality of life is similar to Argentina's, but to me it seemed a little bit better. The cities were much cleaner, there were sidewalks, and the National Parks are run very professionally. But to be fair, I haven't seen very much of Chile, so I would need to explore more to make a fair comparison.

I celebrated Easter in the capital city of Chile, Santiago. We met up with two friends from our trip to Antarctica, and rented an apartment together. We cooked a big Easter dinner on Easter Sunday and each called home to our families. Then on Easter Monday, we got a real Easter treat...we boarded a plane and flew to Easter Island!

Easter Island is tiny spot in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It is the furthest place you can be in the world from somewhere else that's inhabited by people. It's literally in the middle of nowhere! Easter Island was formed over time by three volcanic eruptions and was settled by a group of Polynesians. A few explorers happened upon the island in their travels, the most famous being Captain James Cook in 1774. Easter Island became a part of Chile in 1888.



The native name for the island is Rapa Nui, which is also the name of the language and the people who live there. It is famous for their big rock statues carved to look like humans, called 'Moai.' Researchers have studied the culture of the Rapa Nui people and the moai for many years and they believe that the moai were carvings made to honour village leaders or important people in the village when they died. Their bodies were buried under the platforms, called "Ahu" which the moai stand on.




No one is certain the history of the moai but it is believed that the islanders themselves (the Rapa Nui people) pushed the moai over. It's easy to imagine how shocking it must have been for them to have explorers arrive and they suddenly learned they weren't the only people on the Earth! My favourite group of moai are the Tongariki group, which are 15 in a row on an ahu. These ones are enormous and it is a magical experience to watch the sun rise behind them.

My other faovurite place on the island is Rano Raraku, which is the quarry. A quarry is a big pit where rocks are carved out of the ground. The moai were made from hard volcanic rock. Partially carved figures, mainly heads, still scatter the hillside.





The moai are the main tourist attraction of the island, but it's also beautiful to hike around. The ancient volcanic eruption made it a very hilly place and there is one sandy beach that was created during a tsunami. The weather is tropical: hot and humid, and it's spectacular to watch the waves crashing on the cliffs. I absolutely loved the week that I spent here and felt very lucky to have come!